This Killing Field is now a museum. Chickens and roosters search the ground for food by the entrance. In the center is a memorial:
The memorial houses a 16 level glass case of skulls unearthed in this particular field, as well as a case of clothing recovered from the excavated bodies. We see a pile of jackets, leg shackles and soft-soled slippers.
A stereo plays flute music. Many of the skulls have bullet holes. Surrounding the tower are grassy hollows marking the mass graves that have already been excavated.
Nearby we can hear children playing, but the grounds of the killing field are quiet, except for the sound of low voices from a small tour group. There are signs posted on trees and buildings as we circle the area to orient visitors.
#7:
Mass grave of 166 victims
without heads.
#5:
Mass grave of more than 100 victims
children and women whose
majority were naked.
Next to #5 :
Killing tree
against which
executioners
beat children.
Other signs say things like "Be quiet please!" and "Please don't walk through the mass grave!"
A group of children near the back of the fence calls to us and we go over to visit. There are 6 of them, ages 4 to 9, and they laugh when we try to pronounce their names. As we go to leave, their voices change pitch and they start chanting samanee samanee, which isn't a name or even a Cambodian word. They reach their hands out, their body language shifts, they make sad faces. Some money. Some money. We give them the fruit we have, but the biggest boy takes it for himself. They walk along the fence to meet us again in the parking lot and their voices trail after us as our tuk tuk drives away.
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